Can you guess the flagship white grape for the Puget Sound region in
Washington? Chardonnay? No. Pinot Gris? No. Gewurztraminer? Close, but no
again. The correct answer is Madeleine Angevine, a Riesling-type vinifera from
the Loire Valley in France that is also popular in the United Kingdom and
Germany. The early-ripening grape is a cross between Madeleine Royale and
Précoce de Malingre grapes and grows well in cooler climates - such as Puget
Sound AVA. Madeleine Angevine makes an attractive fruity wine with a delicate
flowery nose, reminiscent of an Alsatian Pinot Blanc.
One Puget Sound winery, Bainbridge Island Vineyards & Winery, produces a
dry vintage Madeleine Angevine wine with a trace of sweetness and a sweeter
"Ferryboat White" blend, which is primarily Madeleine Angevine. The winery
decided to cultivate this grape after the winery’s winemaker, Gerard Bentryn,
worked in vineyards in England where Madeleine Angevine thrived. Since the
Seattle is actually dryer than the Isle of Wight and in Devon areas in England,
Mr. Bentryn thought that the grape would do even better in the Puget Sound AVA
than in England. Ironically, they were able to purchase vines close to home on
Vashon Island, but the vines were sold as "Early Muller Thurgau" because the
nursery did not know the plants were actually Madeleine Angevine. After
vinifying the grape, the winery has had no problems gaining public acceptance.
The Madeleine Angevine wines sell out every year and the Ferryboat White is
their best seller. They have a far more difficult time getting wine shops in
the Seattle area to stock these wines. Mr. Bentryn also makes the similar
comment as other growers of non-mainstream grapes that wine writers and judges
like to dwell on the endless repetitions of Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Merlot.
“They seem to be cognitively unable to enjoy the almost endless "uncommon"
grape varieties out there.” Once again it appears that the general wine public
is in the forefront. Finally Mr. Bentryn believes that “Madeleine Angevine is
truly a wine for the Puget Sound region. For those discerning few who seek the
full spectrum of the "qualities" of wine, landscape, culture, spirituality of
time and place; wine grown where you live, not just manufactured where you
live; Madeleine Angevine and all of the wines that are grown here are the keys
to becoming an integral part of this wonderful place we live”.
Another Puget Sound winery, San Juan Vineyards, also cultivates Madeleine
Angevine and in their case, a dry wine that they market as oyster wine. The
winery opened in 1999 after planting the Madeleine Angevine and Siegerrebe
vines three years previously. The winery’s tasting room is situated in a
historic one-room schoolhouse built in 1896. According to Yvonne Swanberg, the
winery’s General Manager, their estate Madeleine Angevine wine has a devoted
following from visitors to their tasting room or other public tasting. The wine
sells out every year and the winery announces the release of their latest
vintage to their Wine Club members so that they get first crack. The wine’s
peach and apple flavor apparently goes very well with oysters; considering
there is an oyster farm on San Juan Island - San Juan Vineyards has become a
destination spot for wine and shellfish.
Lopez Island is one of the many islands in the Puget Sound and is home to Lopez
Island Vineyards. This is a small family owned and operated winery that
produces wines from organically grown grapes. Brent Charnley, the winemaker,
became interested in Madeleine Angevine, while working as the winemaker for
Mount Baker Vineyards in the 1980s. Mount Baker Vineyards grew 30 different
varieties so Mr. Charnley was able to see firsthand which varieties ripened
well and what kind of wine they made. When planning which grapes to grow for
the Lopez Island Vineyards, the grapes had to meet two criteria: (1) early
ripening and (2) match well with food – especially seafood. Not only did Mr.
Charnley feel strongly that Madeleine Angevine met these requirements based on
his past experience with the grape, but also it is a wine he personally enjoys
to drink. Lopez Island Vineyard’s Madeleine Angevine is a complex, dry, estate
grown wine that is 100% barrel fermented and according to the tasting notes,
“complement the flavors of grapefruit, tropical fruit and herbal qualities that
are the characteristics of this grape.” Mr. Charnley recommends serving the
wine with seafood and shellfish, in particular Dungeness crab and raw oysters
“due to its sharp acidity and citrus (grapefruit) character, but it is a great
match for oysters with a mango and grapefruit salsa on top!” Even though this
wine has won numerous awards since the winery’s inception (at the San Diego
National Wine Competition, Enological Society of the NW, Indiana International
Wine Competition, Riverside CA International Competition - among others),
people are reluctant to try the wine unless it can be compared to one of the
2-3 best known white wine grapes. Once people taste the wine, they are
generally pleased with it.
Greenbank Cellars is located on Whidbey Island and grows Madeleine Angevine
because the grape thrives and produces larger yields in their climate. The
winery resides in a 100+ year old barn – which is pictured on their wine
labels. Madeleine Angevine, as well as all their white wines, is vinified in
the Alsatian style, meaning dry, fresh, crisp, citric flavors, and no oak. The
result is a food-friendly wine that the winery recommends with seafood. The
winery is very proud of their Madeleine Angevine and has compared it favorably
to other white varieties vinified in warmer regions. Like the other wineries
mentioned, Greenbank Cellars must struggle with the general public’s lack of
familiarity.