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After experiencing one of the longest times in barrel we have ever given our Pinot Noir, this was bottled only last May, and has just begun to get used to living in a glass house, so to speak. I have learned to hold off on releasing the RRV bottling to restaurants and wine shops until about a year later, when the wine will be ready to begin its life of pleasure-giving the moment the cork is pulled, so you get to see it first. Similar to our RRV bottlings of the past, with a bit of that sweet, loamy earthiness and light herbal character as a counterpoint to the red fruits, this exhibits less of a cola note and more of sassafras character this vintage. I think the sassafras is expressed more in the 'banana belt' on the Sonoma Coast ridges, where the night time temperatures are typically not as low as the RRV slightly inland. In 2003, the vines must have vacationed on these ridges.

Rich, round and deep, the 2003 OMV has the ‘berry pie thing’ of the 1993, but it also has additional texture and sweet earthiness from its increased time on the lees before the first racking, similar the 1999. Both of these older vintages are aging and developing well, and this should be no exception, yet I think the 2003 is beginning a bit rounder and fuller than either of those vintages at a similar stage. Since 1997, there has been a blueberry note in our OMV’s, and I think it has something to do with the more ‘reductive’ aging regime we have gravitated toward since then. I like the complex interplay between the wide range of fruit characters and our winemaking choices that we see in these long-aging wines. I know of no Zinfandels like these.

As much as I appreciate the delicate perfumes that are retained in cool vintages, Zinfandel is a variety that enjoys a good bake now and then. This stuff seemed to laugh at the hot, dry streak that occurred at harvest. Perhaps the vines at the Scherrer vineyard were just in such good shape before then (ask my dad)? It's hard to say what were the most important factors, but the results speak for themselves. Harvested exactly when we wanted to, I am thrilled with the generosity of flavor, and the balance between ripeness and restraint this vintage shows. Huge aromas of blue, red and black berries, as well as cassis flavors meld into a long and persistent finish.

Over the years, our Cabernet style has evolved to a more 'reductive' development. This means less manipulation, less pumping, less 'oxidative' upbringing…kind of like our Pinot Noir and Zinfandels. I have found that this method preserves the perfumes and texture of the wine, and should greatly increase bottle ageing potential. This method requires more time in barrel before bottling (nearly three years). One of the best aspects of this variety is the complexity that it can achieve with lengthy bottle ageing. So, I feel that it is a waste to let that potential slip away by over manipulating the wine in the winery in order to make it taste like flat soda pop upon release. When the wine is less than 7 years old, it benefits greatly from decanting before consumption in order to 'wake up.' Those of us who want current satisfaction only need to take an active role in consumption by giving an aerative splashing into a decanter awhile before serving. That said, I believe this vintage of our Cabernet to have the highest long-term potential. Bottles I have opened for recent visitors have been absolutely fantastic after 6-7 days without protection from air aside from a cork.

For the first time, I bottled this late, after the following vintage. I am extremely happy with the complexity and balance of this wine. Flavors like lime and apple pie á la mode, it is rich and round with a mouth watering lift at the end. These Chardonnays age quite well. The 1997 is just beyond its peak, but the 1998 is right on, which the 2000 is entering. 2001 is still on its way up. To borrow another hackneyed phrase, 'patience is a virtue.

This endeavor is like a tightrope walk. On one end of the rope, there is fruit and minerality. On the other end is rich mouth feel and continuity. There is the danger of falling into coarseness and heaviness and there is no net. To make it across the rope, we begin with very gentle whole-cluster pressing, then integrate hands-on techniques to navigate this fine line. This vintage is our most successful to date.

In 2003, I had a few fermentation lots that combined very well into a wine that reflects bits of Pinot personality from the entire county rather than the Sonoma Coast or the Russian River Valley. It has aromas of strawberry preserves, morello cherry, a hint of sassafras and well integrated oak that unfold into a very long, supple finish. Our first Pinot Noir that carries this designation, this is for those of you that have repeatedly requested a $25 Pinot Noir. Recently, I brought a bottle home for dinner, and Judi couldn't believe we weren't going to charge more for this. It is rare to find Pinot Noir of this quality for the price. I expect it to be at its best within a couple years from release.

This is our second vintage from this vineyard. As I mentioned in a past newsletter, Don Bliss has in fact, budded over some Pinot Noir thereby doubling the amount of this variety for the future. He has also added a selection of Syrah that I have been packing around for over a decade and a few other promising clones/selections. Somewhat riper than the previous vintage, this wine still has a meatiness (something like smoked duck from across the room), violets, plums, and the kind of texture and structure that a great northern Rhone can achieve.

You saw this in the spring. I am pleased with its early development, finding it ready for the summer. I do not think we have had a better vintage of this wine. 'Tis the season to reload while there is still summer left.

In 2003, I experimented with making pink wine from this variety. The results were encouraging enough to repeat it in 2004. Compared to the typical Vin Gris of Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, this wine is very dark for a pink wine. Almost as deep a color as some Beaujolais Nouveaux. More generous and lower in acidity than the 2003 vin Gris of Cabernet Sauvignon, it sings best with salty foccacia and olives (duh, Fred). This is a truly unique wine style that is like nothing else I have seen.

What? No, don't look for your (reading) glasses. This is a blend of some small parts of the Scherrer Zinfandel Vineyard that did not fit perfectly into the Old & Mature Vines blends in the last two years. I took these leftovers from the 2002 and 2003 vintages, and just kept them in barrel until I found an appropriate home for them. As it turned out, mixing the two vintages together brought balance and harmony in a different register than our typical Zinfandel. Heck, if the top Champagne producers routinely do this, why not think outside the 'vintage box' with California Zinfandel?